He was a
whiskey-guzzling Scotchman, and he downed his whiskey
neat, beginning with his first tot punctually at six
in the morning, and thereafter repeating it at regular
intervals throughout the day till bedtime, which was
usually midnight. He slept but five hours out of the
twenty-four, and for the remaining nineteen hours he
was quietly and decently drunk. During the eight weeks
I spent with him on Oolong Atoll, I never saw him draw
a sober breath. In fact, his sleep was so short that
he never had time to sober up. It was the most
beautiful and orderly perennial drunk I have ever
observed.
McAllister was his name. He was an old man, and
very shaky on his pins. His hand trembled as with a
palsy, especially noticeable when he poured his whiskey,
though I never knew him to spill a drop. He had been
twenty-eight years in Melanesia, ranging from German New
Guinea to the German Solomons, and so thoroughly had he
become identified with that portion of the world, that
he habitually spoke in that bastard lingo called
"bech-de-mer." Thus, in conversation with me, sun he
come up meant sunrise; kai-kai he stop meant that dinner
was served; and belly belong me walk about meant that he
was sick at his stomach. He was a small man, and a
withered one, burned inside and outside by ardent
spirits and ardent sun. He was a cinder, a bit of a
clinker of a man, a little animated clinker, not yet
quite cold, that moved stiffly and by starts and jerks
like an automaton. A gust of wind would have blown him
away. He weighed ninety pounds.
But the immense thing about him was the power
with which he ruled. Oolong Atoll was one hundred and
forty miles in circumference. One steered by compass
course in its lagoon. It was populated by five thousand
Polynesians, all strapping men and women, many of them
standing six feet in height and weighing a couple of
hundred pounds. Oolong was two hundred and fifty miles
from the nearest land. Twice a year a little schooner
called to collect copra. The one white man on Oolong was
McAllister, petty trader and unintermittent guzzler; and
he ruled Oolong and its six thousand savages with an
iron hand. He said come, and they came, go, and they
went. They never questioned his will nor judgment. He
was cantankerous as only an aged Scotchman can be, and
interfered continually in their personal affairs. When
Nugu, the king's daughter, wanted to marry Haunau from
the other end of the atoll, her father said yes; but
McAllister said no, and the marriage never came off.
When the king wanted to buy a certain islet in the
lagoon from the chief priest, McAllister said no. The
king was in debt to the Company to the tune of 180,000
cocoanuts, and until that was paid he was not to spend a
single cocoanut on anything else.
And yet the king and his people did not love
McAllister. In truth, they hated him horribly, and, to
my knowledge, the whole population, with the priests at
the head, tried vainly for three months to pray him to
death. The devil-devils they sent after him were
awe-inspiring, but since McAllister did not believe in
devil-devils, they were without power over him. With
drunken Scotchmen all signs fail. They gathered up
scraps of food which had touched his lips, an empty
whiskey bottle, a cocoanut from which he had drunk, and
even his spittle, and performed all kinds of deviltries
over them. But McAllister lived on. His health was
superb. He never caught fever; nor coughs nor colds;
dysentery passed him by; and the malignant ulcers and
vile skin diseases that attack blacks and whites alike
in that climate never fastened upon him. He must have
been so saturated with alcohol as to defy the lodgment
of germs. I used to imagine them falling to the ground
in showers of microscopic cinders as fast as they
entered his whiskey-sodden aura. No one loved him, not
even germs, while he loved only whiskey, and still he
lived.
I was puzzled. I could not understand six
thousand natives putting up with that withered shrimp of
a tyrant. It was a miracle that he had not died suddenly
long since. Unlike the cowardly Melanesians, the people
were high-stomached and warlike. In the big graveyard,
at head and feet of the graves, were relics of past
sanguinary history--blubber-spades, rusty old bayonets
and cutlasses, copper bolts, rudder-irons, harpoons,
bomb guns, bricks that could have come from nowhere but
a whaler's trying-out furnace, and old brass pieces of
the sixteenth century that verified the traditions of
the early Spanish navigators. Ship after ship had come
to grief on Oolong. Not thirty years before, the whaler
Blennerdale, running into the lagoon for repair, had
been cut off with all hands. In similar fashion had the
crew of the Gasket, a sandalwood trader, perished. There
was a big French bark, the Toulon, becalmed off the
atoll, which the islanders boarded after a sharp tussle
and wrecked in the Lipau Passage, the captain and a
handful of sailors escaping in the longboat. Then there
were the Spanish pieces, which told of the loss of one
of the early explorers. All this, of the vessels named,
is a matter of history, and is to be found in the South
Pacific Sailing Directory. But that there was other
history, unwritten, I was yet to learn. In the meantime
I puzzled why six thousand primitive savages let one
degenerate Scotch despot live.
One hot afternoon McAllister and I sat on the
veranda looking out over the lagoon, with all its wonder
of jeweled colors. At our backs, across the hundred
yards of palm-studded sand, the outer surf roared on the
reef. It was dreadfully warm. We were in four degree
south latitude and the sun was directly overhead, having
crossed the Line a few days before on its journey south.
There was no wind--not even a catspaw. The season of the
southeast trade was drawing to an early close, and the
northwest monsoon had not yet begun to blow.
"They can't dance worth a damn," said McAllister.
I had happened to mention that the Polynesian
dances were superior to the Papuan, and this McAllister
had denied, for no other reason than his
cantankerousness. But it was too not to argue, and I
said nothing. Besides, I had never seen the Oolong
people dance.
"I'll prove it to you," he announced, beckoning
to the black New Hanover boy, a labor recruit, who
served as cook and general house servant. "Hey, you,
boy, you tell 'm one fella king come along me."
The boy departed, and back came the prime
minister, perturbed, ill at ease, and garrulous with
apologetic explanation. In short, the king slept, and
was not to be disturbed.
"King he plenty strong fella sleep," was his
final sentence.
McAllister was in such a rage that the prime
minister incontinently fled, to return with the king
himself. They were a magnificent pair, the king
especially, who must have been all of six feet three
inches in height. His features had the eagle-like
quality that is so frequently found in those of the
North American Indian. He had been molded and born to
rule. His eyes flashed as he listened, but right meekly
he obeyed McAllister's command to fetch a couple of
hundred of the best dancers, male and female, in the
village. And dance they did, for two mortal hours, under
that broiling sun. They did not love him for it, and
little he cared, in the end dismissing them with abuse
and sneers.
The abject servility of those magnificent savages
was terrifying. How could it be? What was the secret of
his rule? More and more I puzzled as the days went by,
and though I observed perpetual examples of his
undisputed sovereignty, never a clew was there as to how
it was.
One day I happened to speak of my disappointment
in failing to trade for a beautiful pair of orange
cowries. The pair was worth five pounds in Sydney if it
was worth a cent. I had offered two hundred sticks of
tobacco to the owner, who had held out for three
hundred. When I casually mentioned the situation,
McAllister immediately sent for the man, took the shells
from him, and turned them over to me. Fifty sticks were
all he permitted me to pay for them. The man accepted
the tobacco and seemed overjoyed at getting off so
easily. As for me, I resolved to keep a bridle on my
tongue in the future. And still I mulled over the secret
of McAllister's power. I even went to the extent of
asking him directly, but all he did was to cock one eye,
look wise, and take another drink.
One night I was out fishing in the lagoon with
Oti, the man who had been mulcted of the cowries.
Privily, I had made up to him an additional hundred and
fifty sticks, and he had come to regard me with a
respect that was almost veneration, which was curious,
seeing that he was an old man, twice my age at least.
"What name you fella kanaka all the same
pickaninny?" I began on him. "This fella trader he one
fella. You fella kanaka plenty fella too much. You fella
kanaka just like 'm dog--plenty fright along that fella
trader. He no eat you, fella. He no get 'm teeth along
him. What name you too much fright?"
"S'pose plenty fella kanaka kill m?" he asked.
"He die," I retorted. "You fella kanaka kill 'm
plenty fella white man long time before. What name you
fright this fella white man?"
"Yes, we kill 'm plenty," was his answer. "My
word! Any amount! Long time before. One time, me young
fella too much, one big fella ship he stop outside. Wind
he no blow. Plenty fella kanaka we get 'm canoe, plenty
fella canoe, we go catch 'm that fella ship. My word--we
catch 'm big fella fight. Two, three white men shoot
like hell. We no fright. We come alongside, we go up
side, plenty fella, maybe I think fifty-ten (five
hundred). One fella white Mary (woman) belong that fella
ship. Never before I see 'm white Mary. Bime by plenty
white man finish. One fella skipper he no die. Five
fella, six fella white man no die. Skipper he sing out.
Some fella white man he fight. Some fella white man he
lower away boat. After that, all together over the side
they go. Skipper he sling white Mary down. After that
they washee (row) strong fella plenty too much. Father
belong me, that time he strong fella. He throw 'm one
fella spear. That fella spear he go in one side that
white Mary. He no stop. My word, he go out other side
that fella Mary. She finish. Me no fright. Plenty kanaka
too much no fright."
Old Oti's pride had been touched, for he suddenly
stripped down his lava-lava and showed me the
unmistakable scar of a bullet. Before I could speak, his
line ran out suddenly. He checked it and attempted to
haul in, but found that the fish had run around a coral
branch. Casting a look of reproach at me for having
beguiled him from his watchfulness, he went over the
side, feet first, turning over after he got under and
following his line down to bottom. The water was ten
fathoms. I leaned over and watched the play of his feet,
growing dim and dimmer, as they stirred the wan
phosphorescence into ghostly fires. Ten fathoms--sixty
feet--it was nothing to him, an old man, compared with
the value of a hook and line. After what seemed five
minutes, though it could not have been more than a
minute, I saw him flaming whitely upward. He broke
surface and dropped a ten pound rock cod into the canoe,
the line and hook intact, the latter still fast in the
fish's mouth.
"It may be," I said remorselessly. "You no fright
long ago. You plenty fright now along that fella
trader."
"Yes, plenty fright," he confessed, with an air
of dismissing the subject. For half an hour we pulled up
our lines and flung them out in silence. Then small
fish-sharks began to bite, and after losing a hook
apiece, we hauled in and waited for the sharks to go
their way.
"I speak you true," Oti broke into speech, "then
you savve we fright now."
I lighted up my pipe and waited, and the story
that Oti told me in atrocious bech-de-mer I here turn
into proper English. Otherwise, in spirit and order of
narrative, the tale is as it fell from Oti's lips.
"It was after that that we were very proud. We
had fought many times with the strange white men who
live upon the sea, and always we had beaten them. A few
of us were killed, but what was that compared with the
stores of wealth of a thousand thousand kinds that we
found on the ships? And then one day, maybe twenty years
ago, or twenty-five, there came a schooner right through
the passage and into the lagoon. It was a large schooner
with three masts. She had five white men and maybe forty
boat's crew, black fellows from New Guinea and New
Britain; and she had come to fish beche-de-mer. She lay
at anchor across the lagoon from here, at Pauloo, and
her boats scattered out everywhere, making camps on the
beaches where they cured the beche-de-mer. This made
them weak by dividing them, for those who fished here
and those on the schooner at Pauloo were fifty miles
apart, and there were others farther away still.
"Our king and headmen held council, and I was one
in the canoe that paddled all afternoon and all night
across the lagoon, bringing word to the people of Pauloo
that in the morning we would attack the fishing camps at
the one time and that it was for them to take the
schooner. We who brought the word were tired with the
paddling, but we took part in the attack. On the
schooner were two white men, the skipper and the second
mate, with half a dozen black boys. The skipper with
three boys we caught on shore and killed, but first
eight of us the skipper killed with his two revolvers.
We fought close together, you see, at hand grapples.
"The noise of our fighting told the mate what was
happening, and he put food and water and a sail in the
small dingy, which was so small that it was no more than
twelve feet long. We came down upon the schooner, a
thousand men, covering the lagoon with our canoes. Also,
we were blowing conch shells, singing war songs, and
striking the sides of the canoes with our paddles. What
chance had one white man and three black boys against
us? No chance at all, and the mate knew it.
"White men are hell. I have watched them much,
and I am an old man now, and I understand at last why
the white men have taken to themselves all the islands
in the sea. It is because they are hell. Here are you in
the canoe with me. You are hardly more than a boy. You
are not wise, for each day I tell you many things you do
not know. When I was a little pickaninny, I knew more
about fish and the ways of fish than you know now. I am
an old man, but I swim down to the bottom of the lagoon,
and you cannot follow me. What are you good for, anyway?
I do not know, except to fight. I have never seen you
fight, yet I know that you are like your brothers and
that you will fight like hell. Also, you are a fool,
like your brothers. You do not know when you are beaten.
You will fight until you die, and then it will be too
late to know that you are beaten.
"Now behold what this mate did. As we came down
upon him, covering the sea and blowing our conches, he
put off from the schooner in the small boat, along with
the three black boys, and rowed for the passage. There
again he was a fool, for no wise man would put out to
sea in so small a boat. The sides of it were not four
inches above the water. Twenty canoes went after him,
filled with two hundred young men. We paddled five
fathoms while his black boys were rowing one fathom. He
had no chance, but he was a fool. He stood up in the
boat with a rifle, and he shot many times. He was not a
good shot, but as we drew close many of us were wounded
and killed. But still he had no chance.
"I remember that all the time he was smoking a
cigar. When we were forty feet away and coming fast, he
dropped the rifle, lighted a stick of dynamite with the
cigar, and threw it at us. He lighted another and
another, and threw them at us very rapidly, many of
them. I know now that he must have split the ends of the
fuses and stuck in match heads, because they lighted so
quickly. Also, the fuses were very short. Sometimes the
dynamite sticks went off in the air, but most of them
went off in the canoes. And each time they went off in a
canoe, that canoe was finished. Of the twenty canoes,
the half were smashed to pieces. The canoe I was in was
so smashed, and likewise the two men who sat next to me.
The dynamite fell between them. The other canoes turned
and ran away. Then that mate yelled, Yah! Yah! Yah!' at
us. Also he went at us again with his rifle, so that
many were killed through the back as they fled away. And
all the time the black boys in the boat went on rowing.
You see, I told you true, that mate was hell.
"Nor was that all. Before he left the schooner,
he set her on fire, and fixed up all the powder and
dynamite so that it would go off at one time. There were
hundreds of us on board, trying to put out the fire,
heaving up water from overside, when the schooner blew
up. So that all we had fought for was lost to us,
besides many more of us being killed. Sometimes, even
now, in my old age, I have bad dreams in which I hear
that mate yell, Yah! Yah! Yah!' In a voice of thunder he
yells, Yah! Yah! Yah!' But all those in the fishing
camps were killed.
"The mate went out of the passage in his little
boat, and that was the end of him we made sure, for how
could so small a boat, with four men in it, live on the
ocean? A month went by, and then, one morning, between
two rain squalls, a schooner sailed in through our
passage and dropped anchor before the village. The king
and the headmen made big talk, and it was agreed that we
would take the schooner in two or three days. In the
meantime, as it was our custom always to appear
friendly, we went off to her in canoes, bringing strings
of cocoanuts, fowls, and pigs, to trade. But when we
were alongside, many canoes of us, the men on board
began to shoot us with rifles, and as we paddled away I
saw the mate who had gone to sea in the little boat
spring upon the rail and dance and yell, Yah! Yah! Yah!'
"That afternoon they landed from the schooner in
three small boats filled with white men. They went right
through the village, shooting every man they saw. Also
they shot the fowls and pigs. We who were not killed got
away in canoes and paddled out into the lagoon. Looking
back, we could see all the houses on fire. Late in the
afternoon we saw many canoes coming from Nihi, which is
the village near the Nihi Passage in the northeast. They
were all that were left, and like us their village had
been burned by a second schooner that had come through
Nihi Passage.
"We stood on in the darkness to the westward for
Pauloo, but in the middle of the night we heard women
wailing and then we ran into a big fleet of canoes. They
were all that were left of Pauloo, which likewise was in
ashes, for a third schooner had come in through the
Pauloo Passage. You see, that mate, with his black boys,
had not been drowned. He had made the Solomon Islands,
and there told his brothers of what we had done in
Oolong. And all his brothers had said they would come
and punish us, and there they were in the three
schooners, and our three villages were wiped out.
"And what was there for us to do? In the morning
the two schooners from windward sailed down upon us in
the middle of the lagoon. The trade wind was blowing
fresh, and by scores of canoes they ran us down. And the
rifles never ceased talking. We scattered like flying
fish before the bonita, and there were so many of us
that we escaped by thousands, this way and that, to the
islands on the rim of the atoll.
"And thereafter the schooners hunted us up and
down the lagoon. In the nighttime we slipped past them.
But the next day, or in two days or three days, the
schooners would be coming back, hunting us toward the
other end of the lagoon. And so it went. We no longer
counted nor remembered our dead. True, we were many and
they were few. But what could we do? I was in one of the
twenty canoes filled with men who were not afraid to
die. We attacked the smallest schooner. They shot us
down in heaps. They threw dynamite into the canoes, and
when the dynamite gave out, they threw hot water down
upon us. And the rifles never ceased talking. And those
whose canoes were smashed were shot as they swam away.
And the mate danced up and down upon the cabin top and
yelled, "Yah! Yah! Yah!'
"Every house on every smallest island was burned.
Not a pig nor a fowl was left alive. Our wells were
defiled with the bodies of the slain, or else heaped
high with coral rock. We were twenty-five thousand on
Oolong before the three schooners came. Today we are
five thousand. After the schooners left, we were but
three thousand, as you shall see.
"At last the three schooners grew tired of
chasing us back and forth. So they went, the three of
them, to Nihi, in the northeast. And then they drove us
steadily to the west. Their nine boats were in the water
as well. They beat up every island as they moved along.
They drove us, drove us, drove us day by day. And every
night the three schooners and the nine boats made a
chain of watchfulness that stretched across the lagoon
from rim to rim, so that we could not escape back.
"They could not drive us forever that way, for
the lagoon was only so large, and at last all of us that
yet lived were driven upon the last sand bank to the
west. Beyond lay the open sea. There were ten thousand
of us, and we covered the sand bank from the lagoon edge
to the pounding surf on the other side. No one could lie
down. There was no room. We stood hip to hip and
shoulder to shoulder. Two days they kept us there, and
the mate would climb up in the rigging to mock us and
yell, Yah! Yah! Yah!' till we were well sorry that we
had ever harmed him or his schooner a month before. We
had no food, and we stood on our feet two days and
nights. The little babies died, and the old and weak
died, and the wounded died. And worst of all, we had no
water to quench our thirst, and for two days the sun
beat down on us, and there was no shade. Many men and
women waded out into the ocean and were drowned, the
surf casting their bodies back on the beach. And there
came a pest of flies. Some men swam to the sides of the
schooners, but they were shot to the last one. And we
that lived were very sorry that in our pride we tried to
take the schooner with the three masts that came to fish
for beche-de-mer.
"On the morning of the third day came the
skippers of the three schooners and that mate in a small
boat. They carried rifles, all of them, and revolvers,
and they made talk. It was only that they were weary of
killing us that they had stopped, they told us. And we
told them that we were sorry, that never again would we
harm a white man, and in token of our submission we
poured sand upon our heads. And all the women and
children set up a great wailing for water, so that for
some time no man could make himself heard. Then we were
told our punishment. We must fill the three schooners
with copra and beche-de-mer. And we agreed, for we
wanted water, and our hearts were broken, and we knew
that we were children at fighting when we fought with
white men who fight like hell. And when all the talk was
finished, the mate stood up and mocked us, and yelled,
Yah! Yah! Yah!' After that we paddled away in our canoes
and sought water.
"And for weeks we toiled at catching beche-de-mer
and curing it, in gathering the cocoanuts and turning
them into copra. By day and night the smoke rose in
clouds from all the beaches of all the islands of Oolong
as we paid the penalty of our wrongdoing. For in those
days of death it was burned clearly on all our brains
that it was very wrong to harm a white man.
"By and by, the schooners full of copra and
beche-de-mer and our trees empty of cocoanuts, the three
skippers and that mate called us all together for a big
talk. And they said they were very glad that we had
learned our lesson, and we said for the ten-thousandth
time that we were sorry and that we would not do it
again. Also, we poured sand upon our heads. Then the
skippers said that it was all very well, but just to
show us that they did not forget us, they would send a
devil-devil that we would never forget and that we would
always remember any time we might feel like harming a
white man. After that the mate mocked us one more time
and yelled, Yah! Yah! Yah!' Then six of our men, whom we
thought long dead, were put ashore from one of the
schooners, and the schooners hoisted their sails and ran
out through the passage for the Solomons.
"The six men who were put ashore were the first
to catch the devil-devil the skippers sent back after
us."
"A great sickness came," I interrupted, for I
recognized the trick. The schooner had had measles on
board, and the six prisoners had been deliberately
exposed to it.
"Yes, a great sickness," Oti went on. "It was a
powerful devil-devil. The oldest man had never heard of
the like. Those of our priests that yet lived we killed
because they could not overcome the devil-devil. The
sickness spread. I have said that there were ten
thousand of us that stood hip to hip and shoulder to
shoulder on the sandbank. When the sickness left us,
there were three thousand yet alive. Also, having made
all our cocoanuts into copra, there was a famine.
"That fella trader," Oti concluded, "he like 'm
that much dirt. He like 'm clam he die kai-kai (meat) he
stop, stink 'm any amount. He like 'm one fella dog, one
sick fella dog plenty fleas stop along him. We no fright
along that fella trader. We fright because he white man.
We savve plenty too much no good kill white man. That
one fella sick dog trader he plenty brother stop along
him, white men like 'm you fight like hell. We no fright
that damn trader. Some time he made kanaka plenty cross
along him and kanaka want 'm kill m, kanaka he think
devil-devil and kanaka he hear that fella mate sing out,
Yah! Yah! Yah!' and kanaka no kill m."
Oti baited his hook with a piece of squid, which
he tore with his teeth from the live and squirming
monster, and hook and bait sank in white flames to the
bottom.
"Shark walk about he finish," he said. "I think
we catch 'm plenty fella fish."
His line jerked savagely. He pulled it in
rapidly, hand under hand, and landed a big gasping rock
cod in the bottom of the canoe.
"Sun he come up, I make 'm that dam fella trader
one present big fella fish," said Oti.
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